This guide assumes you already have the AR-15 parts you want (I have
resources for suggested parts lists elsewhere but my homie that keeps
that up wants it to be a living document so its not readily accessible
to just CopyPaste here).
This guide also assumes you know how to put the damn thing together.
I'm not listing the instructions out for that here (yet. idk) Do your
own homework and find videos and guides on how to do it.
This guide lists out the various tools you will need and why you
will need them. There will also be a label next to each tool header of
[VITAL] for absoutely necessary components, [SUGGESTED] for parts that
are heavily suggested but technically not required, and [OPTIONAL] for
parts that may or may not apply to your build. I will try to order this
list vital-components first. There will also be a label next to each
tool header of [UPPER] for tools only used on upper recievers, [LOWER]
for tools only used on lower recieversm, and [FULL GUN] for tools used
on both.
For each tool type there will be a list of possible things you can
purchase to fullfill the tool need. They will be labelled with the name
of the item, the approximate price, and a label of either [KINDA GUCCI]
for more expensive but robust equipment, [DAMN FINE] for tools that will
likely stand the test of time but won't break your wallet, and [GOOD
NUFF] for tools that will be sufficient for an AR build but may be less
reliable for other tasks and over long periods of use. Options will be
listed in order of price, with exceptions for multi-use tools (like
upper/lower combo blocks, punch sets that come with roll pin starters,
etc). Keep in mind, this guide is still very budget-focused! there are
far guccier options for many of these tools that cost Thousands of
dollars but thats outside my scope.
This guide is built both out of my own experience buying budget
tools for my first AR-15 build, and the knowledge of several of my
friends who have built and worked on their own ARs. Some of them like
very fancy tools, and I politely asked they keep their suggestions
within a reasonable budget lol.
The links provided here are not the only place to find the product I
mention! Check in-person at your local hardware stores first for the
non-gun-related tools to see if theyre cheaper there so you dont have to
pay shipping. Check your local gun store for gun-related tools (but
make sure they aren't overcharging you lmao. scumbags love to mark stuff
up).
LET US BEGIN.
You will need a bench vise to build any AR-15. Many components need
to be torqued down (tightened) to a specification that frankly, most
people cannot accomplish by holding the gun against a table or between
their legs. This must be complemented with a method of holding gun
components (that'll be the next item on the list).
IT IS PRETTY MUCH FUCKIN MANDATORY that you bolt the vise down
to a sturdy bench or table. I have personally attempted to torque down a
buffer tube with a non-bolted vise and I fucked up my castle nut really
badly and had to purchase a new one. Do not get a jewlers vise or a
woodworking vise that clamps to the table or uses a suction cup. They
will likely not be enough to withstand the forces you will need to exert
on them when torquing down components. If your vise is stupid fucking
heavy and massive it may not move, but that will not be the case for any of these suggested options. Here is a video
on how to mount one in a good position on a workbench. If you're
installing it to a flimsier MDF/Chipboard desk, push it back like 2"
from the edge at least. Don't install it on any bench thinner than like,
3/4", or anything hollow-core.
If your vise swivels or rotates that will make it far easier to get
your gun parts to a good angle for working them, but it is not strictly
necessary. Generally, a vise with 3" jaws should be good enough.
Dont clamp your upper directly in the vise. These components provide
a way to hold the upper in the vise reliably, without damaging it. This
is necessary for when you torque down your barrel nut and muzzle
device. Vise blocks that clamp over the upper are not listed here, as they are unreliable and can exert excessive force on the upper.
Dont clamp your lower directly in the vise. These components provide
a way to hold the lower in the vise reliably, without damaging it. This
is necessary for when you torque down your buffer tube. Vise blocks
that clamp over the lower are not listed here, as they are unreliable and can exert excessive force on the lower.
your gun goes boom, you want to make it go boom the right way, you
torque it to spec so it doesnt fly apart in your hands or turn into a
pipe bomb.
PLEASE WATCH A VIDEO ON HOW TO USE A TORQUE WRENCH. Once you set the
torque, push on the damn thing until it goes "click" and kinda slips
forwards a little, thats how you know it's met torque. Mount any wrench
heads at 90 degrees to ensure that youre not fucking with leverage in a
way thats gonna affect your effective torque. See this video for an example of how to mount any odd wrenches you might need, and this video
for how to use a torque wrench in general. Make sure your torque wrench
has settings for 20 ftlbs, and 80 ftlbs. make sure your torque wrench
socket size matches whatever wrenches you're using, this will likely be a
1/2" socket!
All sorts of shit on your gun requires weird wrenches to torque it
down. this is not quite all-in-one, but a most-in-one solution. The
primary thing that needs an odd wrench is your Castle Nut. You may be
able to torque down a barrel nut with a manufacturer-provided wrench but
not all manufs provide one for free. You may be able to torque down a
muzzle device with other tools you have on hand but many of these
wrenches include a hole for basic muzzle device torquing. The
description for each wrench will list the major features it provides.
Doesn't need to be fancy. You've gotta pound some shit into place,
and tap pins in as well. A normal metal hammer will be loud as fuck and
might chip whatever parts you're hammering. Rubber/synthetic mallets are
the way to go.
Theres a lot of shit on a gun that needs an allen key, you are going to need one and might as well get a set.
Suggested Options:
Ya gotta put the fucking pistol grip on, and a decent amount of
normal flatheads just dont fit up the damn grip far enough. I'm not
gonna give specific recs but make sure the screwdriver at least has 5"
of shaft. NOT ALL GRIPS USE A FLATHEAD, SOME USE A HEX KEY.
These compounds will help you put on a castle nut and barrel nut without potentially fucking up your threads. You technically can build an AR without these but fuck, you're running the risk of damaging expensive gun parts. You don't really have a good excuse not to buy it tbh, its cheap as shit.
You can probably get away with hammering on your pins directly, and
using random screwdrivers if you really need a pin. But god its such a
fucking pain. Get a steel set for stuff you wanna fucking Hit, and a
brass set if you care about marring the surface finish or deforming
anything.
Suggested Options:
Not super needed if you already have a punch set, but it makes it a
lottttt easier and a lot less finnicky to start hammering in your roll
pins. I've lost count of how many times ive dropped a roll pin while
trying to start hammering it in.
You can technically get away with using a torque wrench in
reverse at a higher torque setting than spec to back off the stuff that
needs to get torqued down. HOWEVER, a breaker bar is far better at the
task and less likely to fuck up. Grab one if you have the cash.
Some people really wanna stake their Castle Nut properly. This does a better job than a standard steel punch.